The Scorpion Bowl is dead. Long live the Scorpion Bowl.
In 1950, husband and wife Chun Sau Chin and Tow See Chin started a small restaurant of 40 to 50 seats called the Mandarin House. The couple, who had moved to Massachusetts from China, offered dishes that would appeal to American diners: fried rice, chow mein, egg foo yong. Their daughter and her husband, Madeline and William Wong, took over the business in 1958 and began to expand, buying adjacent land and building additions. Along the way, they had six children; in her spare time, Madeline worked as an insurance agent for John Hancock, setting sales records as one of the rare Asian American women on staff. Eventually, the restaurant would come to have 1,200 seats, themed areas like the Tiki Lagoon Room and the Luau Room, a comedy club, and a different name. The Kowloon still stands on Route 1 in Saugus more than 70 years after it opened, a landmark of glorious isosceles architecture, the tiki god above the entrance glowing in the neon light.