By Marc Levy
Saturday, November 15, 2025

Marc LevyRyan and Molly Lindbergh inside a gutted 98 Winthrop St. in Cambridge – the former Red House and future Cox Hicks Club – on Oct. 16.
What was known as The Red House at 98 Winthrop St., famed for its lobster menu and cheerfully blazing fireplaces, has been carefully gutted, stripped to rough floorboards and eccentric angles from centuries past to become an entirely new concept in the spring. Owners Molly and Ryan Lindbergh – Molly is the daughter of Red House founder Paul Overgaag – are at once bursting to talk about it and reluctant to reveal too much.
“We’re paring it back to the original inception of hospitality, to classic styles that are local to New England,” Ryan Lindbergh said during a walkthrough of the space in October. Less lobster, though a bisque and clam chowder can be expected; beef from Tendercrop in Newburyport, which raises its own cattle; likely some hearty ravioli; perhaps a dish that pays homage to The Red House.
“We want to to give people a fine dining experience, but you can go to it and not feel like, ‘What just happened to my wallet,’” Molly Lindbergh said.
More than anything, they want the Cox Hicks Club to be a clubhouse in more than name – one open to anyone. “As someone who grew up here and lives here,” Molly said, “Where is the character? Where is the soul? I want it back. I want this to be the cornerstone, the heartbeat. I want people to love it. I want people to be proud of it as part of this community. And I’m not talking about people visiting; I’m talking about people who live here all year.”
The couple has been obsessing over the house and its future for five years, as they emerged from Covid in steps, building from a sidewalk lobster stand into a frenetic peak in 2023 and sagging into last year as tourism dipped, economic uncertainty set in and the couple found themselves “Band-Aiding a lot of problems,” Molly said, with a building parts of which are well over 200 years old.

Marc LevyThe Lindberghs have been thinking about The Cox Hicks Club for five years.
They shut the Red House forever in October 2024, on the last day of the Head of the Charles regatta. With Needham Bank, they are betting big on a thorough refurbishment that has Ryan prowling salvage yards for granite, hand-hewn wood beams and the gas lanterns he plans to install along Winthrop Street.
The Lindberghs’ goal of a sustainable kitchen drew a $100,000 grant from the city, which led to the shock discovery that the historic Red House was the only structure on the street without direct access to power lines, and The Cox Hicks Club kitchen couldn’t support the new equipment. “We need the electrical capacities to be future looking,” Ryan said, to someday be independent of fossil fuels. “We’re putting so much energy upfront into the utilities and the unsexy parts of doing this project. Our general contractor looks at us and is like, ‘Does this make economic sense?’ No, no, but we’ve got to do it.”

An October rendering of the future Cox Hicks Club, which was designed by Ryan Lindbergh.
Their rebuilding for the ages is in consultation with Charles Sullivan, of the Cambridge Historical Commission. With its earliest parts dating as far back as 1796, Sullivan said, 98 Winthrop is only Federalist-era house in the city on its original site and original foundation. It sits atop a stone retaining wall built as part of a scheme to develop the town’s brook into a wharf, Sullivan said in a call. That idea, to dredge the brook and bring in cargo by barge and schooner, didn’t work out, but the house served its purpose: sheltering Sarah Hicks, the widow of John Hicks, a Tea Party participant who died at the battle of Lexington and Concord.
“It remains an almost unique example of the type of very modest, single-family house that would have been occupied by a person of limited means,” Sullivan said.
A later owner was Susannah Cox, a widow who welcomed other widows as tenants. The structure stayed a home into the 1970s, when the last resident willed it to Harvard. After using it as office space, the school sold the property to Overgaag in 1998 for conversion into a restaurant. He built everything back from the main dining room in 2001 and opened the Red House – the structure has been painted red since the 1890s – a couple of years later.

Marc LevyThe Lindberghs on Winthrop Street outside the Cox Hicks Club, which they hope to open March 1.
“I’ve had a love-hate relationship with this house,” said Molly, recalling one of her chores as a child growing up in a restaurant: sweeping up cigarette butts on Winthrop Street. “I’ve learned to love it. I’ve learned to also love working with Charles. I’m like, you know what? I get it. Like, I get why this is important.”
The Lindberghs have put up a whole website on the history as well as prepared a custom historical marker for the house, aghast that it was skipped when the blue ovals went up around the bicentennial. (“I’m not sure why it wasn’t in the original lineup of markers,” Sullivan said.)
The Lindberghs are making their own addition – upward, so the club will wind up seating the same roughly 100 people as The Red House, but without crowding. The roof is getting a deck with a bar, including a three-season patio with its own fireplace. Dining is focused on the second floor, leaving the ground level with a series of unique spaces for dining and lingering that feel like they’re for “the people who live here year-round,” Molly said. The Lindberghs are setting up a chess table directly in front of a fireplace. “The conversations in this town. People writing books. It’s insane, the amount of knowledge being transferred. I want this floor to enable people to do that and feel like the original inception of a restaurant, as a meeting house.”
The fireplaces won’t be the same – the logs are impractical and bring rodent problems, Ryan said. They will be converted to burn pellets that provide the same cheery blaze and warmth. And every booth will get a view.
“It should create just a really beautiful sense of nostalgia when you’re sitting and having what should be very fine dining service,” Ryan said. “It should button everything together.”
More about The Cox Hicks Club:
Molly is excited about Christmas at The Cox Hicks Club. “I cannot wait to have a massive Christmas tree out on my deck,” she said, and to hire carolers to delight people strolling and shopping. Electrical outlets have been added to the deck specifically to light the tree. “Just because, like, why not? No one does it anymore. It makes me happy,” she said.
The Cox Hicks Club may go tipless to combat dining-out “exhaustion.” The couple dislikes when a meal ends feeling like doing complex math. “Between a price on a menu and the end price you see on a receipt with a 20 percent tip, with a kitchen admin fee, sales tax, meals tax, and it’s just like, it’s not what you see is what you get,” Ryan said. “We have the ambition to try to pare that down and eliminate as many of the painful touch points as possible.” The hope is to get staff on salaries with health insurance and make it “an actual sustainable place to be.”
Don’t expect a big online presence for this throwback club. There will be no social media for this restaurant, Molly said. “I’m not doing it. It’s not what we’re about,” she said. She’s not even sure she wants to post the menu online. “I just want people to come in here and the server to tell them everything and tailor it to the table. I want to be, like, welcome to the experience, my friends.”
The club has a tentative opening date of March 1.






