The Dominican kitchen moves to Harvard Square’s Garage this month
Hyde Park’s Seila Herrera, 39, runs Las Palmas in Roslindale and now in Harvard Square. The newer Cambridge location will move from Harvard University’s Smith Campus Center to The Garage on Mount Auburn Street later this month. Herrera took over the fast-casual Dominican spot in 2016, wanting to showcase the foods she grew up eating in the Dominican Republic — empanadas, stewed chicken, caramel flan — a big but ultimately gratifying departure from her prior career at Kaplan Career Institute in Charlestown.
Tell me how you first got involved with Las Palmas.
I got involved in Las Palmas because my mom used to work there, and I was a regular. And then the original owners were selling it, and I thought: “That sounds very interesting!” I’ve always been passionate about food, the way we eat, and the way we cook. In March 2016, I made the decision [to buy it]. I jumped right into it.
One of my things about Dominican food is it’s not commercialized yet. It’s not like Mexican food, where everybody recognizes it. I don’t know if you’re familiar with any food industry vendors. They have sections for every cuisine that you can think of, but there’s not a section for Dominican [food]. So that really caught my attention. Why is Dominican food not commercialized enough? Do we not know how to sell it? Do we not know how to package it? That had been in my head for a long time before getting to the restaurant.
What were you doing before?
I come from the education industry. I was a registrar for one of the Kaplan higher education schools in Charlestown. Then I had a baby, and then I was just trying to figure out what my next move should be. When this idea came about, my baby was 3 months old. It was just one of those things that I felt I had to act on.
I have a daughter who’s going to be 21 years old, and at the time, she helped me a lot with the baby. It was teamwork between my mom and my daughter. I’m very grateful that I was able to embark on this path. With the help of everyone, I got it done. That’s what’s important.
What’s different about the restaurant now that you own it?
It took a lot of work, a lot of time, to actually change everything around. Now, we don’t use Styrofoam. Now, I’m using microwaveable containers, because the food will hold better — if you buy a plate of food, you can just bring it home and reheat it whenever you want to. And labeling: No Dominican restaurant was ever doing any of that. So it took a little bit to do a shift in the community. We’re doing something different; we’re doing something better. That was around one to two years, all this shifting. Then I realized: OK, we need to cater; we need to reach out to nonprofits. We need to reach out to companies.
Then the pandemic happened. Through the pandemic, I was able to stay afloat because we partnered with Off Their Plate and World Central Kitchen. We were one of the few restaurants in Boston feeding the front-liners. That helped a lot. That opened doors for us. So we started at MIT in 2021 at their Launchpad. We were the first Dominican restaurant in the MIT schools. We were there until this April, and then we started at Harvard in the Smith Campus Center in October 2021 as well. We were their first Hispanic restaurant.
Tell me about your food. What do you love about it?
I love that it’s the same [food] that I used to eat. I was born in the Dominican Republic and I go back every year, every couple months, if I can. And it was very hard for me to find the same quality of food that I was accustomed to eating — my mom’s cooking. It’s very different when you buy food elsewhere. So I wanted to really tell people: This is how we cook; this is how we eat. It has a lot of flavors, but it can be also healthy. I think there’s maybe a little stigma where, people think that Caribbean food, or Dominican food might be greasy or not very healthy. That’s not true.
Let’s say that you go to Dominican Republic right now, and you have a bowl of my food. It’s going to taste exactly the same. I’ve always told my customers: I wouldn’t sell you anything that I don’t eat. My kids eat there every day. I eat there every day. I’m very proud.
What are your favorite things on the menu?
My favorite items are yellow rice with pigeons peas, stewed chicken, and sweet plantains.
How would you describe Dominican food versus other cuisines?
Dominican food is full of flavors. I use a lot of garlic. I use a lot of cilantro. I use a lot of red and green peppers, a lot of onions, and I buy my ingredients fresh. I don’t like to freeze anything. I believe in fresh food. Once you start freezing food, it doesn’t taste the same. But we are very big on garlic. We use garlic on mostly everything.
Did you grow up loving food? Tell me a little bit about what your childhood was like.
My mom was a homemaker, so she was home all day, every day. She would cook three meals a day. When my dad used to come home from work, he would find a plate of hot food waiting. I was involved in the kitchen with my mother growing up. She tells me a funny story: When I was 7 years old, I was already doing dishes and making coffee. Food was a big part of growing up. I became a picky eater: I wouldn’t eat any Dominican food unless it was from my mother.
I came here when I was maybe 7, 8 years old, but I didn’t really start living here until I was 12. My father came first. We wanted a better future for ourselves. We lived in New York for two years. And then we moved to Boston. By the time I was 13, I was already settled in Boston and went to Charlestown High School here. I got my first job when I was 14, at ABCD Summer Programs, a program run by the City of Boston for teens.
What did you think of Boston when you got here?
It was totally different from living in New York. It was a very quiet city back then. But my job, as my mother would say, was just to go to school and come home.
Do you have any favorite local neighborhood restaurants that you visit besides your own?
Before Hyde Park, I lived in the South End. I love Barcelona. That’s my favorite tapas bar. I love the gambas. I love the bread with tomato. I love the eggplant. I love everything!